Iceland

Introduction

After eight years if friendship, my college girlfriends and I successfully planned a long anticipated mother-daughter trip. We were searching for a unique, but not overwhelming experience. With eight personalities and interests, this was no easy task. We landed on Iceland in November for a few reasons. Iceland, although exotic and unlike anywhere I’ve been, was relatively easy to get to, considering we traveled from all over the country. In terms of international flights, it’s entirely doable even for those who despise long, overnight flights. Although the country is much colder this time of year than tourist season, (May-August) it is a perfect time to witness the Northern Lights!

 

With three of us in Charlotte, and one in Greenville, we drove to Raliegh, NC Wednesday afternoon for our seven PM direct flight to Reykjavik. We met up with two others flying in from Atlanta and connected with everyone else when we landed bright and early at six AM. Wanderlust Travel Agency helped to plan the trip. (I’ll link their information in the blog notes and will also post our full itinerary for reference.)  We’ve used Kelly and her staff for several family vacations and my month-long trip to Asia. I can’t recommend them enough! 

Day 1

We had a rough introduction to the Icelandic 25mph wind and rain when we landed and  met our scheduled driver. Fortunately, we had a warm and comfortable sprinter van and guide for most of the trip. This was essential, as we traveled throughout the southeastern coast / countryside. There was plenty of room to stash our belongings and hang our wet clothes in between excursions. After securing our luggage, we drove about 45 minutes to our hotel, Hotel Reykjavík Saga, a gorgeous four- star hotel in downtown Reykjavik. There, we regrouped, stored our bags and headed to a cozy breakfast spot across the street called Bakabaka. To use up some downtime before our food tour at 12:30 pm, we ran into the penis museum which was self-proclaimed as “the one and only penis museum in the world”  and thought, “Why the hell not?” .  We may have overestimated our maturity for a unique educational experience, to say the least. I’ll be honest, the abstract art was cool, however the undoubtedly real, life-size models of various animals’ genitals was a bit disturbing…especially prior to our food tour. After a productive morning, we stopped at the bar for a drink. In true fashion, we missed meeting our food tour group and had to catch up with  them at the first stop, a restaurant called Fjallkonan (I will link all the restaurants  in the blog notes). Here we enjoyed slow cooked lamb shoulder on flatbread and raw arctic char with roe on a blini. Arctic char is very similar to salmon, but with a stronger taste and aroma. I personally enjoyed all of it, but if you’re not a seafood eater, you may lose a few pounds on this trip. Next stop, Messinn family style restaurant. This stop included cod stew, arctic char cooked in honey butter, lime and almonds, with rye bread and butter. The arctic char at this top was one of my favorite meals of the trip- highly recommend if you like any kind of glazed salmon. Our third stop was the infamous Icelandic hotdog cart, Bæjarins Beztu Pylsur. The meat was delicious and bursting with juice at the first bite. Included with your hotdog is a sweet mustard and a unique ketchup that has applesauce in it. Definitely different than what we’re used to but a perfect combination, nonetheless. Our second to last stop includes fermented shark, which hits you the second you walk in the door. The shark is so potent it’s cut into small cubes and stored in glass jars. Our sweet food tour guide, Helda, was a 22-year old native. She explained how fermented shark was originally discovered when the first settlers ran out of other food sources. About 450 years prior, the natives discovered shark is fatal when eaten fresh because of the extremely high mercury content. The shark was buried to avoid another fatality. Months later, they resurrected the mammal for a second attempt. This time, the fermentation process made it safe and digestible. It is now a tradition and primarily eaten, not necessarily enjoyed, once a year for natives.  Helda candidly braced us for what to expect. She recommended only chewing 5-10 times, you won't want to swallow it the longer it sits in your mouth, which I can personally attest to. Only a few people in our group were up for the challenge.  We quickly washed it down with Brennivan, a popular liquor to accompany the shark. We finished with traditional Icelandic meat soup and rye bread. Our final stop, Cafe Loki offered delicious Icelandic ice cream and coffee. The ice cream included bits of rye bread topped with fresh whipped cream and rhubarb caramel- it was some of the best ice cream I’ve tasted!

Later that night we had a drink at the hotel bar. The bartender was Ukrainian and recently moved to Iceland. He wanted to know all about American politics. Almost every time I travel internationally, this is typically the first question I’m asked. It’s always asked out of genuine interest and curiosity, so I’m happy to oblige the conversation. It’s refreshing to hear their opinions. Don’t worry, I won’t go down that rabbit hole, but it’s a stark contrast to what we consume through our media sources. After a quick cocktail and conversation, we ate a late dinner, and headed out for the night. We were exhausted but had to check out the bar scene in downtown Reykjavik. Our first stop was at a bookstore-turned-late-night bar named Hus Mals og Menningar. It was surprisingly crowded, with a great band playing and busy dancefloor. On our walk home, we strolled past a charming piano bar called Elly and popped in for a few drinks. Both spots were full of energy, especially for a Thursday night. I highly recommend checking them out. 

Day 2

After what felt like the longest day of our lives, we slept like babies and woke up around eight AM, had breakfast at our hotel and checked out. It’s much harder to get up early in Iceland this time of year. The sun rises around 9:30am. We met our second guide Harpa, who seamlessly blended in with our group. She was our very experienced guide for the remainder of the trip. Thingvellir National Park was our first excursion of the day. This is where “the wall” is located for the Game Of Thrones fans. After, we toured the Golden Circle. Next, we warmed up at a local greenhouse for lunch at Fridheimar Tomato Farm. This was a really cool experience and came highly recommended by locals. Reservations are a must! They’re typically booked months in advance. For lunch, we were served an assortment of juices and cocktails, mussels with tomato both, pasta and more with fresh basil as the centerpiece of every table. The star of the show however was the unlimited bread and tomato soup with sour cream. Everything was made with simple, fresh ingredients and exceeded my expectations. On the way to our next hotel in Hella, we stopped to see the Golfoss waterfall and Geysir Geothermal Area. The scenery was unlike anything we’ve seen before. We never grew tired of venturing to the next waterfall. Later that evening we arrived at the Stracta Hotel Hella, located in the Southern countryside where we stayed for two nights. This small, more rustic hotel is perfect for viewing the Northern Lights. If you wish, you can request to be woken up in the middle of the night if the “lights” become visible! We ended the night with champagne under the stars in the outdoor saunas and hot tub. It was a perfect ending to a full adventurous day. We saw glimpses of the Northern Lights before bed. Unfortunately, that night they were more subtle and were only visible through a phone camera on night mode. 

Day 3 

After a routine breakfast at the hotel, we met Harpa for our busiest day of the trip. On the way to our glacier hike, we stopped at Skogafoss Waterfall where you could climb the 500-step staircase to its’ peak. Next on the agenda was the Solheimajokull Galcier hike at 10:45AM. A three-hour experience. A warm raincoat and waterproof pants (found cheap ones on amazon) with plenty of layers are nonnegotiable. Our guide was a glacier climber from Spain. The tour company provides a harness, helmet, ice pick, and spikes which tie to your shoes. If you have mobility issues, you should proceed with caution or hang back when it comes to this hike. It’s about a one-mile trek through volcanic ash before we reach the glacier. As someone who has only hiked in warm climates, it was a must; however, unless you’re super passionate about stomping through ice, tackling one glacier is plenty! On the way home, we took a detour to view the Reynisfjara Black Sand Beach. It was cold, rainy, and flooded with tourists, so we didn’t stay long. The water currents and waves are treacherous, It’s an incredibly dangerous beach. The powerful waves have taken several lives from sneaker waves,( waves that look safe then drag people out to sea from the shoreline). Harpa was understandably itching to get us out of there and onto the next stop.

Our hotel was relatively secluded, so we grabbed some pizza at a great little restaurant down the road called Fjarhusid. In true American fashion, we hijacked the hotel lobby TV and streamed the Ole Miss vs. Georgia game using an HDMI cord ,while keeping the lobby bartender busy for the next couple hours. This ended up being my favorite night of our trip. We had the best time teaching Harpa all about football and Ole Miss traditions. A huge win against Georgia didn’t hurt either. A few other Icelandic hotel guests joined us for the game and we called it a night around midnight. 

Day 4

Our last day before flying out was the perfect day. I typically like to end my trips with room to play the day by ear and plenty of relaxation time. We slept in, had breakfast at the hotel and Harpa shared a few ideas of where to stop along the way to our final destination. But first, we had our last excursion, a lava tunnel called Raufarhólshellir. Harpa knew we were dying to taste more Icelandic ice cream, so despite it being 10:30 in the morning, she took us to a gas station en route to taste the famous “soft serve”. They only had one flavor, vanilla with assorted toppings. I chose vanilla dipped in chocolate and I’m not exaggerating when I say it was the best soft serve I’ve had. This style of ice cream can be found at almost every gas station in Iceland, but don’t be fooled by its accessibility, the quality is top notch. It’s more creamy than sweet, perfectly accompanied by the richness of Icelandic chocolate. The lava tunnel was quick and easy, perfect after our busy days prior. Honestly, it was cool to see but It’s the one thing I’d skip. The tour was under an hour and the guide was just OK. At one point during the tour the guide shut off all the lights inside the tunnel, so we could sit in the complete darkness for what felt like several minutes. It was surprisingly surreal, and a little ominous. After, we were free to explore but for safety reasons we weren’t allowed to go further than about 10 yards. After the lava tunnel, we continued our journey to the Blue Lagoon. Harpa had a few stops in mind that really elevated our experience. She drove us through an abandoned town which had only recently reopened the public after a fissure eruption in Grindavik, a once bustling fishing community turned eerie ghost town. It was incredible to see the fresh volcanic ash, where it spilled then ultimately ceased and latched to the old volcanic ash that grew green with moss, looking more like a prairie. The silver-lining-like contrast the eruption created was other-worldly.

 

Later that day, we arrived at the Silica Hotel Blue Lagoon, eager to sink our cold bodies into the thermal heat after a day of travel. Harpa said goodbye with hugs and teary eyes. This may sound dramatic, but we were so sad to see her go! She was the sweetest, most accommodating and hard-working guide I’ve ever met. The Silica is a splurge and much needed for our final night in Iceland. The hotel is nestled deep in volcanic ash, with its own lagoon connected to the larger, more populated lagoon for public access. We spent the rest of the day aweing at our luxurious rooms and strolling the grounds in bathrobes and face masks. Before dinner, we used the nearly empty lagoon connected to our hotel. I reluctantly finished a quick run in the hotel gym (since I was running a half marathon the following week… poor planning on my part), and got ready for dinner. We took a quick shuttle to the main hotel and sat down for dinner around eight pm at The Lava Restaurant. I chose creamy mushroom soup topped with olive oil to start, followed by flounder cooked in lemon caper sauce, with fingerling potatoes and crumbled dates. It was phenomenal. Perfectly prepared. 

 

Day 5

Prior to our flight, we planned to “take in” the main lagoon before we were shuttled to the airport later that afternoon. We met for a delicious breakfast buffet with endless options at the hotel, then took the shuttle to the main lagoon around eight AM. It’s crucial to shower before the lagoon, applying a generous coat of conditioner to avoid the minerals drying out your hair. As it was a Monday morning, we were the first to arrive, but it didn’t take long for the lagoon to fill up. Our package included three face masks and two beverages, with designated swim-up bars for both. It was a great experience; however I can't imagine the weekend / afternoon traffic would be pleasant. A couple next to us in line to get our second face mask suggested we try the Sky Lagoon to avoid crowds in the future, just as beautiful, but lacks the milky-blue hue of the Blue Lagoon. We stayed for about two hours then headed back to our hotel. Luckily we were able to secure a late checkout (12pm). I showered and spent the rest of the afternoon relaxing and catching up on emails before our 20-minute ride to the airport for our four PM flight back to Raleigh. 

Takeaways

At only 80 years old, Iceland is a young, proud, diplomatic country. They’re officially an Evangelical state, but fully embrace the practice of alternative religion. Despite being a non-secular state, Iceland is quite progressive, electing a woman as their 4th President in 1980. As mentioned before through conversations with natives, Iceland has curated a environment where women can thrive, with equal representation between men and women in government and unwavering commitment to gender equality, equal pay and reproductive rights. Iceland is also incredibly safe, and resource rich. Like any country, it poses many challenges, like cold and wet winters, inconsistent sunlight, and natural feeling of isolation due to its geography. Many of which I presume keeps Iceland as the #1 country for antidepressant usage. There are no predatory animals in Iceland, and an abundance of energy makes them incredibly self-sufficient. Its raw, unfiltered beauty invites you to unplug, slow down, and appreciate simplicity. Grab your friends or family, make the short trip across the Atlantic, and I guarantee you’ll leave the island with treasured memories and a deep respect for the natural world. 

 

Blog Notes:

Wanderlust Travel Consultants | Explore The World

Price per person

  • everything in our itinerary + agency fees: $2,935

  • airfare: $696

Itinerary Overview 

Nov 7, 2024 - Welcome to Reykjavik Iceland

Arrive at Keflavik Airport

Private Airport Transfer from KEF Airport to Reykjavik

Reykjavik

Hotel Reykjavík Saga

TOUR Reykjavik Food Walk

Nov 8, 2024 - Golden Circle

Hotel Reykjavík Saga

Private Driver Guide

Golden Circle Sights

Thingvellir National Park

Lunch in a Greenhouse at Fridheimar Tomato Farm

Gullfoss Waterfall

Geysir Geothermal Area

Stracta Hotel Hella

Nov 9, 2024 - South Coast

Private Driver Guide

South Coast

Skógafoss Waterfall

TOUR Glacier Hike Experience on Solheimajokull Glacier

Reynisfjara Black Sand Beach

Seljalandsfoss Waterfall

Stracta Hotel Hella



Nov 10, 2024 - Journey to the Blue Lagoon

Stracta Hotel Hella

Private Driver Guide

TOUR The Lava Tunnel

Blue Lagoon

Silica Hotel Blue Lagoon

Dinner Reservation Lava Restaurant Blue Lagoon

Nov 11, 2024 - Departure

Silica Hotel Blue Lagoon

Private Airport Transfer Blue Lagoon to KEF Airport

Departure from Keflavik International Airport



Food Tour Details

Messinn 

(Address: Lækjargata 6b, 101 Reykjavík Iceland)

  • Plokkfiskur (Cod stew)

  • Arctic Char

  • Rye Bread and Butter

Bæjarins Beztu Pylsur 

(Address: Tryggvagata 1, 101 Reykjavík) 

  • Lamb Hot Dog

Íslenski Barinn 

(Address: Ingólfsstræti 1a, 101 Reykjavík)

  • Traditional Icelandic Meat Soup (Kjötsúpa)

  • Viking Gylltur

  • Brennivín / Black Death

  • Fermented Shark

  • Bread and Butter

Café Loki 

(Address: Lokastígur 28, 101 Reykjavík)

  • Rye Bread Ice Cream

  • Coffee / Tea

Few more things regarding commonly asked questions:

-The wool store Í recommend the most: MJÚK // It’s on the rainbow street!

-The best Weather website: www.yr.no // this is the best way to check the Weather in Iceland

-Taxi number +354 5885522, they take both Icelandic currency and card

-The wine store “vínbúðin” in the city center: open 11-18 // Closed on sundays