Peace Retreat Costa Rica

12/13-12/17

Plant Medicine

Yoga

Holistic Healing

  • Introduction

    I’m never one to shy away from trying new things or visiting obscure countries, but this trip was different. Writing in my travel journal used to feel like a chore. This time, I found myself reaching for my journal several times a day and feeling compelled to share the information I absorbed. That brings us here. My name is Carmen and I love to eat, practice yoga, and hate to stay in one place. I’m 27 years old, I’ve been to 14 countries, and decided it was time for my first international solo trip: a 5-day yoga retreat in Los Pargos, Costa Rica, a small community on the western coast.

    My goals were to of course relax, connect with new people, and if I thought something was too “out there” to give it a try anyway. I also figured that a little detox from alcohol and my all-time-high nicotine addiction couldn’t hurt.

Day 1

The Liberian airport was efficient and easy to navigate. I breezed through customs, baggage claim and into the 80 degree air, sunshine and local hecklers welcoming me by insisting to carry my bags 10 steps in exchange for a tip. I learned to never entertain this scenario the hard way a few years back in Bali. I found my driver and we were on our way. He was incredibly friendly and thrilled to share one of his favorite songs “Carmen” on the ride. I’m well accustomed to telling people who slip into Spanish when I travel that, “No, I don’t speak the language and no, I am not Latina despite my name.” Their look of sheer disappointment should be enough to make me learn the language. 

I arrived at Peace Retreat an hour and a half later with last-minute nerves that quickly dissolved when I met the staff and saw the peaceful property nestled comfortably in the jungle. I met Maggie, a gorgeous Filipino woman who works at the retreat and spends her free time surfing. Maggie went over the basics, took my bags and showed me to my cabin. There are several accommodations to choose from depending on your comfort level, I opted for one of the cheapest options:  $500 for four nights in a small, screened-in cabin with two twin beds, a safe,  shelves and communal bathrooms. Also sans hot water or AC,  it was very comfortable. My stay included airport transportation, two large meals, and one-two yoga classes / day. I headed to 4:30pm yoga in the shala (a gorgeous outdoor/indoor room with wooden floors, surrounded by trees). One of the volunteers led us through an hour of restorative yoga. The volunteers, Tallulah and Meg, were two adorable women with the best energy in their young twenties. They’re both from the US, working on the property until their next adventure. The chef prepared us dinner of homemade gnocchi, bread and salad. Initially, I was concerned about the vegetarian diet, but every meal left me beyond satisfied - it’s clear the chef put thought into the presentation, nutritional value, and flavors of each dish. Everything is homemade, from the pineapple salsa, tortilla chips and bread, to the juices that accompanied meals. I called it an early night and headed to bed around eight pm, skipping my usual mindless TikTok scroll until midnight; mainly because I needed to save battery since my charger broke and who wants to be the needy guest searching for a charger on day 1. 

Day 2

We started with yoga at seven am in the main studio. In each class we began with a discussion. Typically the instructor focuses on a topic and how we might incorporate it into our physical practice. We did several breathing techniques including Breath of Fire and Alternate Nostril breathing. After, breakfast was overnight oats with chocolate, a breakfast burrito and fresh fruit. Tallulah gave me directions and I began my 25-minute walk to the beach which ended up as a 45-minute trek (if you know me this is expected, as someone severely directionally challenged). Thankfully the locals were happy to help after asking “Donde es la playa?” in an awful American accent. 

I returned from the beach midafternoon, ready for my first spa package. I booked the “Yoni Women’s Package,”  an ancient healing practice passed down from midwives consisting of a Yoni steam and womb massage. I met with Berenice, a certified midwife and herbalist. She began by explaining the benefits. The Yoni steam opens the uterus to remove emotional and physical toxins. It can also aid in irregular periods, PMS pain, PCOS, infertility, and lack of libido. We began with breathing exercises and she explained the history/significance of the practice. Women tend to hold trauma in their hips / pelvic region. We began with a stomach or “womb massage” which is similar to a lymphatic drainage massage for about 20 minutes. She then instructed me to sit on a wooden plank with a pot of steaming water and various herbs below.  She wrapped me from head to toe and encouraged kegel exercises while she talked me through the process and sang. I estimated this took around 45 minutes. The steam was incredibly hot at first, but she reassured me it wouldn’t burn as I eased into the process. I returned to the massage table for another 30 minutes. Afterward, we emptied the pot of water/herbs back into the earth. The entire package took almost two hours and cost $128. I felt incredibly relaxed and comfortable, but mainly relieved to not find 3rd-degree burns between my legs. We could talk about anything I wanted. She even encouraged me to reach out to her after the treatment. Berenice had an incredible aura that was very nurturing. She sent me back to my room to relax. After she wrapped my abdomen in a towel,  I was advised to avoid socializing for at least 30 minutes.

Five more women arrived. A group of three twenty-somethings on break from dental school and two women in their forties. We all got along instantly. I devoured some cauliflower tacos and soup for dinner and I headed to bed. 

Day 3

This morning’s class focus was “Fear.” Our instructor was the owner / founder of the retreat, Kevin. Kevin is a human development specialist who came to Costa Rica in 2011 and successfully built a breathtaking space to heal, grow or simply disconnect. Kevin led us through a discussion on fear, which we physically hold in our quadriceps. Fear of new ideas is held in your right quad, while fear of failure is held in your left. We asked ourselves what we’d accomplish if fear were’t such a powerful presence in our lives, and what we tend to fear more, change, or failure? 

After breakfast, we embarked on a 3.5-mile hike to a gorgeous waterfall ($75) with April, another guest whom I grew close with, Javier, and his dog Todo. Javier is a local who guides guests to secluded hikes in his spare time. Most of the dogs in Costa Rica are well-behaved and unleashed. It’s common to let them roam free and sleep outside. We encountered only one other group for the duration of the hike, a young local family swimming and jumping off rocks. On our descent we noticed some cacti in the middle of the jungle, looking out of place. Javier explained that it’s the male counterpart of Ayahuasca, a powerful plant-based psychedelic used for centuries in Central and South America for religious or therapeutic purposes. It’s quite common for local Costa Ricans to have experienced this type of plant medicine at least once. Javier’s ex-wife holds Ayahuasca ceremonies where she guides curious minds through the intense trip in a secure environment. Javier also boasted about buying his 11-year-old son a motorbike, to teach him independence.  Self-sufficiency is a source of pride and taught early in this community. The other guest, April, was a single woman in her forties traveling with her friend. I loved chatting with her. She got the itch to travel in her mid-thirties after being laid off. She sold most of her belongings and headed to Europe. She briefly traveled with her short-term German boyfriend she met abroad before traveling solo for several months. Currently, she lives and works in Colorado Springs and came on this retreat with her friend Emily. 


Day 4

Now, if you thought Day 2 was a lot, brace yourself. Today is ceremony day. We began with morning yoga and spoke about our relationship with communicating our needs. Are we comfortable communicating our needs, or do we shy away from asking for help and why? A few guests agreed that as women, we tend to communicate our needs through manipulation (sometimes subconsciously) to avoid appearing “needy”, instead of being direct. We all exchanged a guilty glance. We then ate a gorgeous bowl of homemade granola, coconut, and passionfruit spread. We were advised to avoid any caffeine, medication, alcohol, advil, etc. and it was recommended we relax before the big day. So I skipped my morning coffee and Zoloft and headed to the pool. The other girls joined me as we chatted and sat in comfortable silence. None of us knew what to expect from the ceremonies. One guest shared that she had to leave in the middle of the Sweat Lodge, part of the day’s activities, a few years back because it was too intense. Safe to say we were all a bit anxious. The Shaman, Alejandro, and his wife (who happens to be the midwife I met on Thursday) and their two little girls arrived midafternoon with several bags of blankets, drums, and various props and began to build a fire in the space designated for the Sweat Lodge. “The Sweat Lodge is a traditional Native American purification ceremony also known as  "Inipi" which means "to live again". We gather in a small, round, closed structure, representing the womb of Grandmother Earth. Fire heated rocks are brought into the structure and water is poured on them to create steam for purification. Alejandro chants, sings, and transmutes energy during the sacred experience. The ceremony consists of four rounds of this process representing the four directions, north, east, south, and west.” Each round was about 10 minutes.” ($75, two hours).

I loved watching Alejandro and his family interact. You could feel the love between them as Berenice blew kisses to her girls across the backyard. We began wrapping the igloo-like structure made of sticks and twine in layers of thick blankets to ensure no light would enter, while Alejandro worked with the fire. We could walk around the structure only clockwise and had to leave our shoes behind. We looked like we were walking on coals, cringing every step we took on the gravel. I decided I should probably suck it up when I noticed Alejandro’s girls running around sinking their feet into the rocks as if they were comfortable. They encouraged us to go in with as little clothing as possible or nude. I opted for a bathing suit top and the sarong I had bought in Cambodia over 4 years ago and neglected since. 

For me, it was imperative that while learning about their practice, I find balance in respecting their traditions while honoring my belief system. I felt a great sense of solace when Alejandro explained that we must connect with whatever higher power we believe in for direction and comfort. Whether that be God, Buddha, or the universe.  Alejandro began by lighting himself freshly rolled tobacco and smoking while he and Berenice spoke about what to expect. Some of the many health benefits include regulating hormones, detoxification through the lymphatic system, and central nervous system regulation. 

When I read the description on their website, I remember thinking “Ok cool I love saunas, I do hot yoga 5 days a week and I consider myself somewhat mentally and physically tough.” Yeah, this was no sauna! Once we loaded the stones and closed the door it was pitch black. As steam surrounded every crevice,  Alejandro played the drums. The second round was by far the most difficult. I thought to myself this might be one of the hardest mental and physical challenges I’ve ever experienced. My breathing began to resemble a panic attack coming to fruition. The steam burned my throat and nostrils while I tried to focus. After round two I asked the Shaman if I could leave to get my water and come back to which he retorted “no”. I have to say, once he said that I felt a strange sense of relief. Having that decision taken away from me, I surrendered to the process. I impulsively went into child’s pose, a yoga pose where your knees are wide and ankles are together with your forehead to the ground. I remember the hot mud on the floor feeling cool against my forehead, and finally I regained control of my breath. 

The idea is to let yourself feel pain and struggle. That’s where you gain clarity. I felt somewhat delusional at one point and as though I had lost my sense of time. Alejandro’s girls came in between rounds and gave us a communal horn to drink water. The children were incredibly respectful and well-behaved, entertaining themselves while their parents worked. After round four, we were told to shower and eat lightly before the Cacao Ceremony. 

“This medicinal brew awakens our ancestral memory and allows us to connect with the heart. Alejandro uses shamanic tools and modalities such as drumming, feather cleansing, smudging, and shamanic sound journeying during the experience. The Cacao Ceremony will begin shortly after the Sweat Lodge Ceremony, which will last into the night for about 3-4 hours, depending on the needs of the group.” ($75). 

The Cacao Ceremony began at seven pm. Alejandro used his pendulum to decide where we sat and how much Cacao each person would have. I was tempted to ask why the pendulum advised him to give my mug an extra scoop but refrained. He also gave us buckets in case we needed to vomit. We chugged the mixture and laid down on our mats for what felt like thirty minutes. 1.5 hours later, we had another cup. By this point, one other guest decided to call it a night. I remember feeling very relaxed, but not sleepy. My thoughts and memories were incredibly vivid and it felt like I was spiraling, but not in a negative way. I had a recurring image of interacting with myself as a child as if I were going back in time to babysit myself. (I know, it doesn’t take a retreat to figure out everything is rooted in your childhood, but it was interesting nonetheless). Around ten pm we wrapped up and he opened the floor for discussion. Another guest departed and then there were three. 

Alejandro told one of the volunteers, Meg, that she was ready for Ayahuasca, which was eerie considering I had asked her earlier in the day if she ever considered it. Alejandro and Meg set up a ceremony for the following afternoon. I could not believe how easy it was. I took the opportunity to ask questions about it and highlighted some interesting notes

  • No garlic, onion, or intense spices day of 

  • No food 3-4 hours prior

  • Minimum 4 hour experience 

  • Purging (vomiting) is not only expected but necessary for the process

  • Interviews are conducted before and after the ceremony with several “check-ins” to make sure you’re processing everything okay

Alejandro said the only reason he’d refuse a ceremony is if a participant’s intentions are not pure (i.e just wanting a trip) or if they have a heart condition. 

We wrapped up around 11 pm and headed to bed; I felt calm but didn't fall asleep till around 1 am. 


Day 5

I woke up around 6am oddly refreshed despite lack of sleep and headed to my last class. Today we focused on chest and abs, which is where we carry blame. We discussed when we blame ourselves and when we blame others.  For breakfast, we ate Egg Bhurji, a traditional Indian recipe of scrambled eggs, spices and vegetables. Before I left, one of the chefs gave me a little tattoo ($80) of a sun on my ribs  - I wanted a way to remember the trip and the opportunity felt right. I said my goodbyes and headed to the airport.

I can honestly say I don't have a single negative thing to say about my trip to Costa Rica. It may not be everyone's cup of tea but I had a hell of a time learning and experiencing their way of life. Everyone I encountered, from the volunteers, locals, and  guests, each had a warm welcoming presence that felt like a hug. I still keep in touch with Tallulah and Meg, who I’m living through vicariously while they’re currently working on a goat farm. This experience was completely authentic. No bullshit. We’re all aware It’s not uncommon for certain practices to become trendy and monetized back home (those $200 “lymphatic drainage” massages at the local spa). Here, I felt their authentic belief in their work. If you’re curious and you’ve made it this far, I’ll list links, my safety rating, and a breakdown of cost below. Feel free to connect with me if you have any questions about the experience. Until next time!

Cost Breakdown and Safety